Hello, again!
We're getting so excited to move onto our new place in a couple weeks! :)
One thing we have to get done is installing fence and improving an existing fence. I'd love your feedback on what we're thinking.
Currently, most of the property is fenced for cattle with electric fencing. The remaining area is unfenced. I'm attaching an image of the current fencing. The area that needs fencing is in the front of our property and along a canal bank.
We're planning on finishing the remaining perimeter with something like the second picture, adding a hot wire at nose-height (what's that, about 2 feet from the bottom?).
We're thinking that we'll need to add another hot wire or two at the bottom of the existing electric fence, too.
A couple things I'm wondering is if we'd need an additional rail to reinforce the new fence or will that be enough? We're thinking of using 48 inch wire mesh, if that'll be high enough. Wondering, though, if we should have the wire mesh attached on the side where the goats are penned so if they push (despite the efforts of the hot wire) they'll be less likely to push the mesh off? We only have plans right now for a couple of pet wethers. But, could see us expanding to a buck and does in the future...adding additional, more buck durable quarters. ;o)
Our plans are not set in stone, so I'd love to hear alternate ideas, too. Cost is a factor, but we want to do it right. :o) BTW, the area we need to fence is about 600 linear feet and will also need to keep 2 legged kids from getting out to the canal, too. ;o)
Thanks so much!
Michelle in Idaho
Replies
Thanks for the tips, Rose!
Our place was fenced for horses when we moved in; strictly barb wire. We bought Stay Tuff fencing for goats (I think it is number 1310). Amazing! Havent had any escapes from that pasture since it went up. And no predators have gotten in! It costs about $299 for a 300 ft roll. We're old (lol) so we paid to have it installed which added to cost but if you've got the muscles to do it; I highly recommend it.
Great info! You're right about different shades of orneriness! I really appreciate hearing all the input. We don't have anyone in our circle that have goats, so we're kinda flying blind! I'm sure we'll make some mistakes along the way. But, that's how you learn! :)
No problem! I thought I might also add, that "isn't the friendliest" is kind of a broad term. Ask them what they mean by that. If they just mean he's not totally warmed up to people, and a little skittish, then I would say there's hope. If they mean he's absolutely wild, and untouchable, then there's more work to be done on your end, but it's not a total lost cause. If they mean he's actually aggressive, (headbutting, etc.) then I'd pass on that purchase.
Thanks, Rachel!
Just for extra in put: There aren't many goats that stay stand offish once they get some treats and grow used to getting some love. :)
You must be reading my mind! :)
We're debating whether we should get bottle babies so my girls can bond with them early, or, get older wethers so they can get right to work on weed duty. Just how ornery can they be? I saw an ad for one that was dam raised and they mentioned he wasn't the friendliest. LOL! That made me a tad nervous. My youngest is 6. She's spunky, but small for her age. I'm not overly worried about her getting hurt, but don't want her to get pummeled all the time, either. LOL!
So many things to consider...
If you are only going to start with a couple of wethers, you can definitely just start with a 16 X 16 pen made of four combination livestock panels. They have smaller spacing at the bottom than cattle panels. Baby NDs can go through cattle panels easily. They can also go through livestock panels if they're smart enough to go through the openings that are a couple feet off the ground. Only some are smart enough to figure that out. Pig panels have good spacing, but they are too short for young goats.
And this may seem unrelated to fencing, but if you get bottle babies, they will be MUCH harder to fence in. They will find openings that you never knew existed. We had one several years ago that would squeeze between the gate and the fence post! It was bottle babies that killed our apple trees.
Oh, man! I might be tempted to have a goat bbq after that! LOL! ;o)
Sounds like it'll be best to add the new fencing first...since it'll be for keeping the kids and dogs out of trouble. Then, use a temporary pen (maybe rig up the cattle panels with have with some mesh) to get the goats on weed patrol right away. Then, as the time and money budget allow, add mesh to the existing fence.
Boy, the list is getting longer and longer... ;o)
Thanks again, Deborah!
Yep -- red rover, exactly! We originally started adding more strands of wire, and we were ultimately up to six or seven strands, but by then, they had it figured out and didn't care about getting shocked. The third year we lost six of our seven apple trees because they kept getting out all winter and stripped the bark off them. I have no idea how the last tree survived. It was the farthest from their pen, so I guess they just didn't quite get the bark stripped off quite all the way around. Then we replaced all of the electric with woven wire. I totally agree about doing it right the first time!
Forgot to mention -- don't put any kind of permanent fencing in an area that can flood. We tried all sorts of things, and it's just a nightmare. Now we have Premier1 Electronet, and if it looks like we're going to get a flood, we just go pick it up. Way better than all of the repair work we used to have to do with permanent fencing (electric or woven wire) when the flood waters and debris made a mess of it.
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