for people who love the littlest dairy goats
I know it can be difficult to tell from pictures. I've tried attaching files below, so I hope they go through. Does this goat look like a purebred Nigerian Dwarf? I have some other pictures if this isn't sufficient. I have this feeling every time I look at him that he is not. It may be my inexperience, but he just does not look like any Nigerian Dwarf I have ever seen before. Just looking for some feedback.
He looks like a Nigerian to me. Is there something specific that looks off to you?
His eyes look fine to me, but his body conformation does not look good in the whole body picture. He looks out of proportion, so I would expect him to be near the end of the line at a show. However, kids go through a lot of stages, and sometimes kids that win turn into adults that do not look that great. Vice versa, I've seen kids do poorly in the show ring and then go on to become a finished champion as an adult.
I wish I could get my hands on him because his legs look kind of skinny, but he has a fuzzy winter coat, so I'm thinking he might be underweight and have a parasite challenge or something.
His legs are definitely skinny. His belly always feels bloated, no matter what he eats (hay, grain, or pellets). The breeder said they had wormed him with Cydectin before I came to pick him up. I found he was severely infested with mites and lice the day after we got him. I should have, but I did not check him over before we brought him home. I treated with Eprinex pour on. When I mentioned it to the breeder, they said the Cydectin would have killed anything that was on him, though this wasn't the case, and I've not heard of oral wormers used internally, killing external parasites? In general he seems unthrifty to me. I know things can change as they grow, but I have decided I do not want to breed him. A very expensive mistake.
Nothing you said surprises me. He looks like he has a parasite problem. That is not a reason to not breed him though. It sounds like his previous owner was not the sharpest tool in the shed. Oral Cydectin would not kill biting lice because they don't suck blood. You might need to do a second dose of pour-on to kill eggs that may have hatched. Are his eyelids red, pink, or white? Any chance you know what dose of Cydectin was used? If they used the dosage on the bottle, that would not work and unfortunately inoculated the worms so that they are going to be resistant to Cydectin now. That doesn't mean that it won't kill any worms, but it may not kill enough to be helpful. Do you have any dewormers on hand? If yes, which ones?
I am not sure what dose of Cydectin was used. But I have Ivermectin 1% that I administer orally. I tried to do a FEC on him today, but got nothing but air bubbles and hay fibers. It's only the second time I've done it, and I'm not super confident I'm doing it right. It may be he needs another dose of the pour on. His eyelids look like a borderline 2/3. There are other reasons I feel I should not breed this goat. First, I agreed to buy him after only seeing a couple of pictures of him at a day old. The breeder said they'd try to get me some updated pictures, but when they didn't, I didn't press them for them and I should have. After seeing the barn he lived in with at least a hundred other goats, eating hay off of urine and feces soaked litter, and stepping over a pile of diarrhea by the door, I should have walked away right then. I made the very bad mistake of talking myself out of what my gut was telling me and I went through with it, thinking I would just take better care of him. But it didn't sink in about goat diseases and what I might have brought home to my herd, until after getting home, seeing the condition he was in, & watching him compared to my other buckling, and now I'm in a mess. My vet suggested getting him off of my farm as soon as possible. This goat was supposed to be the "best" the breeder had. Worth $2000 according to them. I saw on ADGA, it's pedigree on the dams side goes back to your Coco Chanel. But I'm realizing the names on the pedigrees do not mean much if it's not a reputable breeder using them. It's part of the reason I wondered if the goat was even purebred, apart from the way he looks to me. I am not sure what was or wasn't true that I was told anymore. The breeder seemed so nice, and helpful the whole time we communicated. It was shocking to see how things really were. It's been a nightmare and a hard lesson to swallow.
If you use ivermectin, you should double the cattle dosage. It's not as strong as Cydectin, so it might not work that great, if they already gave him Cydectin. I'm not saying that you should not use it -- just that if you do use it, and it doesn't improve the situation, do not assume that worms are not a problem. You might need to use two dewormers together. If you have ivermectin, that's in the clear dewormer class, so you could give that and then give a dose of Safeguard or Valbazen. You would also give double the dosage that's on the bottle, even if you buy the goat Safeguard because it's the same strength as the cattle Safeguard. Horse dewormers are almost strong enough for goats. Cattle ivermectin is 1% while the horse one is 1.87%, so it is almost double. I just round up on the goat's weight when using horse dewormers. If you only have a few goats, the horse dewormers are a good deal because they are meant to be a single dose for a horse, which is good for about 10 goats.
I hate to see you waste so much money. The goat is already on your farm, which means if he has some disease, it could be there already. It would be a good idea to do a whole herd test for at least CAE and Johnes, regardless of whether or not you plan to keep him. Even though what you talk about is really sad to hear, it doesn't necessarily mean he would be a bad buck. I'm not sure what you can do with him in his current condition.
Oh my goodness- what a terrible situation you found yourself in when you went to pick him up. I can completely relate- I bought a llama when my gut and knowledge told me I shouldn't have. I just fell in love with him and the nurse in me wanted to nurture him. I ultimately wound up spending a lot of money on a sweet little guy that ended up having an immune system problem that could not be 'fixed.'
Since you are worried about your fecal testing skills, I would just go ahead and drop off a sample with your vet so you have a general idea of what is going on inside and how your results compare. More recent research is showing to use FAMACHA in concert with other observations about the goat such as body condition, stool consistency, and coat condition, as a better standard of practice when deciding to deworm vs FEC alone. Having FECs on your goats gives you much valuable info though-I really like to trend my fecals to see who my carriers are, who has resistance vs. resilience, and how well my dewormers are working when I do deworm.