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  • Good to know...I will ask the vet tomorrow! :O)
  • So I was reading this article and found it interesting , you might to.

    It is less traumatic to castrate the kid when he is very young but this will make him more susceptible to urinary calculi  because his urethra (the tube that carries his urine from his bladder to the opening in his penis) will not develop to its full size and is easier to clog up. Urinary calculi is when the urethra gets blocked up with mineral deposits and urine can not pass through it.  If the deposits or “stones” are not somehow passed or dissolved, the kid’s bladder will burst and he will die.  Ideally, you should wait until your kid is 10 weeks old to castrate him but this is not always possible.  

    NEW YORK STATE 4-H MEAT GOAT PROJECT FACT SHEET #10
  • My little guy, ( Moose ) came home with a rubber band around his jewels , he was about 8 wks I think. I'm not sure how old he was when she put it on .2771466200?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024
  • He's not a wether yet...but we plan on it. How old should he be before he gets fixed?
  • For a wether, probably any goat feed is fine. I'm very particular about feed for does and bucks though. Amazing how easy wethers are!
  • OK...thanks! Is there a special kind of grain, or just plain old goat feed? And the mineral block I bought him is right where he can access it, is that right?
  • When people buy wethers from me, I usually tell them to buy a 50# bag of goat feed (grain) and give the kids 1/2 cup a day each, and when they run out, they shouldn't need to buy any more. Kids can use the extra calories for growth, but wethers are VERY easy keepers and will get big and meaty on grass hay and/or pasture.

    As for the minerals, he should just lick a little bit every day. Leave them somewhere where he has access, and he'll take what he needs.

  • I did buy him his minerals...he doesn't like them too much right now...hope that will change.  I am heading back to the grain store to talk with the goat guy....maybe I should just get a job there..seriously
  • Yes, I believe that's true... but they also need minerals, and so I'm not 100% sure that they don't need SOME grain, but not as MUCH as does, or that they don't eat any. My breeder feeds grains to her bucks and wethers, but not as much as the does. (with the exception of the bucklings and wethers that live with mommas)
  • I've read somewhere that bucks and wethers don't need grain...is this true?

    Rachel Whetzel said:
    Also thought I might mention that my breeder says at 4 weeks, he should have started a couple weeks ago to start eating hay and sampling grains. (in addition to feeding on milk)
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